1980s Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref# 3745, Circa 1972 | Watch Only

Introduced in 1968, the Ellipse is unlike anything else in the Patek Philippe catalog. Its oval case is drawn from the “golden ratio,” a pattern that can be found all over in both art and nature. Where the Calatrava has held to tradition and the Nautilus would soon define sport, the Ellipse leaned more into art and modern design than conventional watchmaking.

This example from c.1972 is crafted in full 18k white gold, with a slender case measuring 27mm across, and the hand-wound Caliber 215 movement allows the watch to sit remarkably close on the wrist at an ultra-thin 6mm thickness. The dark blue dial features a subtle cross-hatched linen texture that catches the light differently from every angle.

What really sets this piece apart, though, is the bracelet: it’s woven together out of hundreds of individually finished pieces of white gold to form a smooth, flowing mesh. This is what takes the watch from a timekeeping instrument to a piece of art. Because of their complicated construction, these bracelets are simply cut to size by jewelers, which makes this complete, uncut bracelet all the more rare. The condition of this watch is excellent all throughout, with only very light wear.

With a deceptively simple form rooted in Modernist design and bracelet work among the finest of all time, this Patek Philippe Ellipse is equal parts jewelry, timekeeping, and art.

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